"Prussians, former inhabitants of this land, cherished places, such as sacred groves, fields and rivers, which they kept intact, places where they refrained from hewing, ploughing or mowing; places where they never caught fish or from which they never drew water; places which had never been invaded by uninvited guests."
P. Dusburg

At present there are no places in Varmia and Masuria, which would be free of human activity traces. Nevertheless, the wildlife of the region managed to preserve its wealth and beauty, and frequently also its primal wilderness. Today’s nature reserves and rare animal species refuges resemble former sacred groves, as the Polish law makes it possible for them to enjoy “the holy peace” by creating protection zones and defending them from uninvited intruders. Along with such secluded places, however, the hospitable region of Varmia and Masuria is abundant in lakes and forests available for people pining for rest and peace.The Scandinavian glacier shaped the lay of the land in Varmia and Masuria, varied and remarkable. The area of the voivodship of Varmia and Masuria is covered by forests in 30% and surface waters in 5.7 % (including lakes - 4.8 %). The amazing variety of the landscape, as well as rather scarce industrialisation and urbanisation make it possible for the local flora to survive in its original abundance. The flora of this region is made up of species of arctic origin, e.g. the cloudberry; boreal origin, e.g. the shrubby birch; central European origin, e.g. the common beech; Atlantic origin, e.g. Scotch broom; pontic origin, e.g. snowdrop windflower; Mediterranean origin, e.g. the wild service tree; and south-Siberian origin, e.g. the pasque flower. Among numerous fauna communities, the most remarkable and at the same time the least transformed are the communities of peat bogs and forests. Genuine wildlife with almost intact flora and fauna resources can be spotted in primeval forests, such as Puszcza Romincka, Puszcza Borecka, Puszcza Piska, Puszcza Napiwodzko-Ramucka, as well as in the woodland area referred to as Lasy Ostródzko-Iławskie. Many of their plant species are under protection. The remarkable variety of the landscape and the plant communities create excellent conditions for local animals. Hence, the flora of the region is lush and interesting. The waters of the Pasłęka and the Krutynia river are home to rare invertebrates – freshwater sponges. Among insects the rarest include: the caterpillar hunter, the great capricorn beetle, the hermit beetle, the clouded Apollo, the swallowtail and the swallowtail butterfly, the moorland clouded yellow and the large blue. Fortunately, the most beautiful butterflies, including the real gems like the scarce copper and the adonis blue are not uncommon. Ichthyofauna is represented by about 45 species, such as the vendace, the salmon, the trout, the bulltrout, the common whitefish, the pikeperch, the schneider, the burbot, the weatherfish, the catfish, the eel, and the one introduced by man – the grayling. Surprisingly, three kinds of lampreys can be spotted in local waters – the sea, river and brook lamprey. The most noticeable representatives of local tailless amphibians comprise the common newt and the crested newt, whereas the caudate species include: the European fire-bellied toad, the spadefoot, the common toad, the green toad and the natterjack toad; the European tree frog; the common frog, the edible frog, the pool frog, the moorfrog and the marsh frog. Reptiles of the region comprise: the European pond turtle, the common lizard and the sand lizard, the blindworm, the grass snake, the adder and the smooth snake. One of the greatest nature and tourist attractions of the region is extremely rich avifauna. It has been estimated that approximately 280 bird species appear in the region of Varmia and Masuria, including 196 breeding species, 50 migratory and nomadic species and 31 species which are observed rather infrequently in the region. What is characteristic of the region are numerous populations of big species, such as: the cormorant, the mute swan, the crane, the white stork, the grey heron, the sea eagle and the lesser spotted eagle. All Polish kinds of breeding grebes are to be found here – the great crested grebe, the red-necked grebe, the black-necked grebe and the dabchick. What definitely makes local waters charming are swans. Autumn and spring passages are usually made by small and noisy swans, which build their nests far north of Poland. Among several species of ducks the most remarkable is undoubtedly the red-crested pochard. Lakes such as Drużno, Karaś, Jeziorak, as well as the floodwaters near Morąg are the nesting places of the graylag goose. This, however, is not the only goose species to be spotted in the region - huge flocks of the bean goose and the white-fronted goose can often be admired on the sky. The cormorant, which used to be a rare species, nests at present in 17 colonies and appears in number 3500 pairs. Numerous grey herons create separate colonies or nest together with cormorants. Other species of herons, less common and more secretive by nature – the bittern and the little bittern breed in marsh reeds. There are about 500 breeding pairs of the bittern, which makes 25% of this rare species population in Poland.

Varmia and Masuria is a remarkable nesting place for about 10 000 pairs of the white stork, which is 25% of Poland’s and 6% of the world’s population. Less numerous black storks appear in number 110 pairs, which makes 10% of Poland’s population. For ornithologists the region is particularly significant as a refuge of predatory birds. About 160 pairs of the sea eagle, which makes 30% of the species population in Poland and nearly half of all Polish ospreys, which is 30 pairs, nest in the region. Lesser-spotted eagles appear in number 650 pairs, which is 35% of the Polish population. Other predatory species, such as the honey buzzard, the red kite, the black kite, the Eurasian hobby, the common kestrel, the marsh harrier and the Montagu’s harrier are also not uncommon in Varmia and Masuria. Other bird species which are worth mentioning include: corncrakes, numerous in Poland, though considered as dying out in Europe, sea gulls, terns, 6 breeding species of owls, including the eagle owl, 9 breeding species of woodpeckers with gems such as the white-backed woodpecker and the tree-toad woodpecker; goatsuckers and beautifully plumed kingfishers. All 5 Polish species of gallinaceous birds live here - partridges, quails, hazel grouses, black grouses, and finally pheasants, introduced here by man.

It is impossible to enumerate all bird species of the region. The crane, however, is not to be overlooked. It used to be a rare and extremely skittish species. At present, however, it is no longer uncommon and appears in number 3000 pairs, which makes 25% of the Polish population. Those flying wanderers find their refuge in swamps; in the peak season the number of cranes in the region can reach 30,000. The largest European land mammal, with even 1000kg of weight, the wisent, appears in number 50 in the primeval forest Puszcza Borecka. Besides, the region prides itself on moose, deer, roe deer, boars, as well as species brought from other countries, such as fallow deer, sika deer and mouflons. Predatory mammals of the region include: the bobcat, the wolf, the fox, the raccoon dog, the otter, the American mink, the badger, the pine and stone marten, the stoat and the weasel. The most remarkable representative of rodents is the beaver. Exterminated in the 18th century, beavers came back in the 20th century thanks to the reintroduction process. At present their number reaches 5000 specimens. Interesting and rare small rodents of the dormice family include: the common dormouse and the forest dormouse. Hares are still popular, though not as common as 40 years ago. One of the most remarkable rarities is the common hare from Puszcza Romincka, as well as the Polish little horse (Tarpan) with a unique genotype, which lives in two herds under the guidance of the Polish Academy of Sciences in Popielno.

Picturesque views and outstanding wildlife of Varmia and Masuria are protected in 8 landscape parks, 104 reserves, 230 organic arable land units, 12 marked wildlife and landscape units, 1 research documentation station, 67 areas of protected landscape (which make 34% of the whole region), 2400 nature monuments and 600 rare species refuges. The most recent form of nature conservation is the membership of the networking programme referred to as Nature 2000. In Varmia and Masuria the network is made up of 12 areas of birds protection and 8 areas of refuge protection. It is not only wildlife and landscape that makes this region, however. We cannot possibly underestimate human contribution to the development and glory of the region. Varmia and Masuria is the matching point of three great cultures: Prussian, German and Polish. The region has a long and rich, if difficult, history in which fates of the three nations intermingle and traces of others (e.g. Lithuanians, Russians, Jews and the Dutch) are visible. All of this is what makes the historic, architectonic and cultural wealth of Varmia and Masuria. The most remarkable tourist attractions include: tumuli and strongholds, cemeteries and battlefields, Gothic castles and churches, palaces, estate manors and outstanding farmsteads, wonders of technics on the unique Elbląg Canal, as well as WW I and WW II remains, with the greatest example of Hitler’s headquarters in Gierłoża.

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Elbląg